A Taste of Poland with a Modern Twist at Black Duck Spirits & Hearth

Article by Becky Fillinger, photos provided

Duck Two Ways

Looking for Polish-inspired dining? How about a restaurant serving several different duck dishes alongside innovative cocktails? We talked to Jason Sawicki, Chef and Owner of Black Duck Spirits & Hearth, about using techniques and recipes his Polish Babcia (grandmother) taught him and the importance of creating a neighborhood restaurant that is familiar, comfortable, and rooted in genuine connection. The Star Tribune called the restaurant one of the 30 most vital restaurants in the Twin Cities. All of this goodness and a working hearth too! Make a reservation for lunch, brunch or dinner and visit the restaurant at 2900 Johnson Street NE.   

Jason SawickiQ:  The name Black Duck carries meaning. Why did you name the business Black Duck Spirits & Hearth?

A:  The black duck feels like my spirit animal. Owning a restaurant often means paddling hard beneath the surface while keeping a calm, welcoming presence above it. I’m from Minnesota. We love our lakes, we live through the seasons, and ducks have always felt like messengers of what’s to come. The name also reflects our commitment to Minnesota farmers and producers, which is a core part of who we are.

Q:  By viewing the menus, your approach to spirits and food feels intentional and story-driven. How do you decide which stories are told through the menu?

A:  A lot of it comes from my life experiences as a chef, but we’ve been intentionally moving the restaurant in a direction that tells the story of Polonia in America. I’m first-generation Polish, and I draw from the techniques my Babcia taught me, giving them a contemporary twist. It’s about honoring tradition while allowing it to evolve.

Q:  Minnesota ingredients play a central role in your work. What excites you most about working with local producers right now?

A:  Minnesota offers an incredible bounty of ingredients, and we’re fortunate to have farms producing amazing products. What excites me most is building a food system that’s sustainable and supports our local economy - which in turn supports us. That connection is one of the reasons duck appears in so many forms on our menu.

Q:  Are there any lesser-known regional ingredients or techniques you’re especially proud to showcase?

A:  Right now, we’re featuring Silesian dumplings from the Silesia region of Poland. They have a wonderfully light, fluffy texture thanks to potato starch. I recently experienced them in a more contemporary setting during a trip to Poland, which inspired me. Dumplings are deeply important in Polish cuisine, and these take me back to childhood when my Babcia would make kopytka, a similar style. There’s something very personal and nostalgic about bringing those traditions to the plate.

Above, Silesian dumplings. Below, pierogi.

Q:  For someone visiting Black Duck for the first time, what dish or drink best captures your philosophy?

A:  For drinks: our bartender, Ra’Jean Jones, created an incredible Old Fashioned when we first opened. He uses duck fat to “wash” the rye whiskey, which enhances its smokiness and gives it a more rounded, velvety mouthfeel. Using Nixta, a unique corn flavored liquor and a few other touches makes it a next level cocktail.

For food: my Babcia’s pierogi. They’re simple but thoughtfully executed - prepared and seasoned in a way you’d find in Poland and Ukraine. We serve them boiled, which is more traditional in Poland, with butter and onions. They’re filled with farmer’s cheese and potato, and they’ve become a dish that many guests connect with on a personal level, often reminding them of their own heritage. While we explore contemporary Polish cuisine, these pierogi are a true homage to tradition and to my Babcia.

The hearth!

Q:  Hearth implies warmth, gathering, and connection. How do you think about hospitality beyond what’s on the plate or in the glass?

A:  To me, true hospitality is about creating moments where people feel seen, welcomed, and valued. We aim to offer an experience that feels like a neighborhood restaurant familiar, comfortable, and rooted in genuine connection.

Q:  Running a food-and-drink business hasn’t been an easy endeavor for some time. What’s been the most challenging part of sustaining Black Duck, and what’s been the most rewarding?

A:  One of the biggest challenges has been understanding what the restaurant model should look like amid inflation, rising wages, and new city and state legislation. We support many of these policies, but adapting the financial side, especially pricing, has been complex. It’s not something you can easily explain to guests; it simply has to be reflected thoughtfully in the menu.

The most rewarding part has been building community. That includes creating a space for Polish and Slavic guests to reconnect with familiar flavors, as well as strengthening ties within our local neighborhood supporting small farms, participating in food drives, and contributing wherever we can.

Q:  How has your perspective as an owner evolved since opening?

A:  Over time, I’ve leaned more deeply into exploring my heritage through the restaurant. The response has been overwhelmingly positive. It’s been incredibly meaningful to see people come together sharing stories, offering perspectives, and even giving advice on how their own families prepared Polish dishes.

Q:  What does “success” look like for you - not just financially, but culturally or creatively?

A:  Success, to me, is keeping the doors open, continuing to build new relationships while honoring existing ones, and supporting our local farm systems. It’s also about watching our team grow into their roles and develop their craft. That kind of shared growth both within the restaurant and the community is what truly defines success.

Q:  Are there any upcoming projects, collaborations, or ideas you’re excited to explore next?

A:  We are looking to expand with our Food Trailer, but have been unable to find a residency location for it. So, if anyone knows a brewery or distillery where it makes sense, please reach out!