Local Tastemaker: Claire Maxwell, Spoon and Stable Wine Director

Article by Becky Fillinger

Are you interested in trying some new and innovative wines by the glass or with your delicious meal at Spoon and Stable? We talked to Claire Maxwell, Wine Director, about what we can expect with her at the helm. I think it makes for a must visit - click here to make a reservation for this North Loop treasure.

Wine Director Claire Maxwell  Photo credit Erin Kincheloe

Q:  How did you become a wine director? Were you in restaurant management previously?

A:  I've been working in restaurants or farms for about 15 years, and over time I became more and more drawn to wine. Early in my career, I had the chance to work with James Beard Award winner Diedre Heekin of La Garagista Vineyard in Vermont to plant their first vines. Ten years later I found myself poring over the wine list The Bachelor Farmer trying to learn all I could. Around the time I started working at Spoon and Stable, I was pursuing my WSET 2 certification. Eventually, our former Wine Director, Ben Dale, asked me to be the Wine Steward. In that role, I started a tasting group amongst staff, because I think it’s extremely helpful for servers to practice talking about wine. That led to my promotion, and I’m so excited to grow from here.

Q:  What's your high-level vision for the wine program at Spoon and Stable?

A:  I want the wine program at Spoon and Stable to inspire both comfort and curiosity. Taste and smell, and therefore drinking wine and eating food, is inextricable from the creation and recollection of memories, and I will never take for granted the power restaurants have to shape these memories. Sometimes, when we go out to dinner, we want all of our favorites - the things we know and love, the things that have brought us pleasure in the past. Sometimes, we want to try something new with help from a server or a chef or a sommelier that we trust. Spoon and Stable will always offer the classics, and my goal is to earn guests' trust so that every now and again, we can surprise and delight them with wines that are off the beaten path. The world of wine can feel intimidating and rarefied, but I'm not interested in perpetuating that stereotype.

Q:  Will you have a particular focus on any geographic regions or styles of wine (for example, focus on sustainable/organic, etc.)?

A:  First and foremost, the wine has to be delicious. And it has to turn the volume up on the dishes Spoon and Stable serves. A good food and wine pairing can transform both the dish and wine; together they are more than the sum of their parts. 

Beyond that, I want to support winemakers that are making wine honestly but with discipline, whose processes allow a true expression of the grape. Winemakers who share this interest tend to practice small-scale farming with an eye toward low intervention, both in the field and in the cellar. Some of them are certified Organic or Biodynamic, but more importantly, they are responsible stewards of the land that they farm.

Lastly, I'm always interested in winemakers that are expanding our understanding of what the wine world can be and who can be part of it. I'm interested in supporting producers who are working in new and innovative ways, or farming in a place no one thought could make good wine, or who are returning to traditional practices that have been all but forgotten.

Q:  What will regular patrons be happy to see retained?

A:  I'm holding on to a lot of old favorites. The Napa Cabernet Sauvignons that our guests enjoy are not going anywhere. Burgundy and Bordeaux will always be represented on the list. More than anything, I'd like to expand on those regions that are so beloved, and show off different, equally delicious expressions. 

Q:  How will regular patrons be surprised with your new placements?

A:  I think regular patrons will see more wines and grapes they've never heard of before. I redesigned our wine list to make it more user-friendly, so I’m hoping it leads to our guests trying unexpected pairings, wines they never thought they would like. Our wine list is now divided by color and country of origin, from northernmost to southernmost. Generally, the further north, the colder and shorter the growing season is, which creates bright, linear, and energetic wines. To the south, longer, warmer growing seasons create riper flavors and brawny, muscular wines. I’m hoping this helps to create a culture of excitement and confidence in exploring wine! 

Q:  How will you entice new customers to try Spoon and Stable through your wine list?

A:  I’m hoping to entice new customers by bringing them more options available by the glass, some of which can be very hard to find anywhere else. Focusing on a vibrant, and at times, off the beaten path by-the-glass list seems like a good first step, because guests will always have a server, or me, right there to guide them through. I want to convey that wine at Spoon and Stable is a big tent; there is something for everyone, and we’re all invested in helping guests find the right glass or bottle.

I am also deeply committed to earning guests’ trust. Before I make a wine recommendation, I want to know what kind of wines a guest enjoys in their day-to-day life and what kind of price range they are interested in. 

Q:  Any special thoughts on by-the-glass selections?

A:  I’ve expanded our by-the-glass list with a new section I’m really excited about, called “For Your Consideration.” It’s where we’re able to share limited stock bottles with both half glass and full glass options, so guests can feel more comfortable going outside their comfort zone with some really special wines. You’ll find Camp 4 Cabernet Sauvignon from Kitá Wines there, a vineyard owned by the Santa Ynez Band of the Chumash Tribe. Winemaker Tara Gomez is incredibly talented; this bottle has so much verve and life. Or Vitovska Solo MM17 from Paolo Vodopivec, a winemaker dedicated to working solely to Vitovska, a grape indigenous to Northeast Italy and Southwest Slovenia where his biodynamically farmed estate is located. 

Q:  Is there something really new and different you’ll be adding?

A:  Well - me! It’s the first time in a long time that Spoon and Stable has had a dedicated sommelier available to guests during service. Instead of being intimidating, my goal is to help guests feel confident and empowered by their preferences, and safe enough to remain curious.

Q:  What do you personally like to enjoy drinking on your day off?

A:  I love Beaujoulais. I like juicy, carbonic, chillable reds - I almost made a whole section dedicated to them on our list! And sherry. Anything oxidative, salty, and nutty.