If Walls Could Talk: The Sample Room Cocktails & Eats
Monday, July 4, 2016 at 2:15PMStory and photos by Julie Craven
If ever there was an “if walls could talk” establishment, The Sample Room is it. The address on Marshall Street - that's mile 856.2 on the Mississippi River for the boaters - is a quintessential Northeast story.
The structure that housed the Theis Hotel and Sample Room was a hard working business back in the 1890’s. Upstairs were rooms that were rented out and the main floor was a saloon. The Gluek Brewery rolled kegs over for sampling, hence the very practical and descriptive name.
Later the building operated as the Polish Palace, from all reports a windowless dive bar, before it was transformed into the current restaurant in 2002. The renovation revealed layers of paint and there were plenty of earlier renovations to plow through. Quite a transformation for a space that is now known for good craft beers and a scratch kitchen.
Today, you can drive by and not immediately notice the building, it is a bit nondescript. Cookie Coleman and Bob Hest first took us to The Sample Room, and it was great fun to bring Austin friends Steve and Deb Thorson on this night.
Trista took care of our group and was very helpful narrowing down a choice of wine flights. I enjoy Malbecs, and with that information she pointed me towards the Euro Red Flights. She walked us through the menu, highlighted items that are made in-house and gave a nod to the list of local suppliers partners.
The Roasted Beets are truly something special. A great combination of beets with orange and mango segments, goat cheese and sunflower seeds that could easily be an entree. Three Meat Meatloaf with grass-fed beef, pork and bison is always Doug's pick.
My Buttermilk Fried Chicken was a bone-in quarter with dirty rice and beans and creamed kale. I had the Fried Brussels Sprouts as well. My photo doesn't nearly do it justice. I'm always amazed how wonderful fried and roasted Brussels sprouts can be. Tell me again why I didn't like them as a child?!
Seared Scallops with nettle pesto, quinoa, and purple ninja radish were Steve's choice and he even agreed to be a hand model for this article.
What do people come back for again and again? “The meatloaf and the Reuben sandwich,” according to Trista, although she has another fairly recent favorite. “Chef Dewey Sulouff just nailed it with one item on the new menu. I just love the mussels.”
The headline desserts are perennial favorites - Dark Chocolate Mousse and a Lemon Panna Cotta. Tempting, but two orders of the Rhubarb Crumble rounded out the evening for our group.
Between the vintage prints and Dan Raphael art, there's a framed Gluek’s shipping label that says, “Never lay the bottles directly on the ice, it kills the creamy effect.” Good to know some things don't change!
Location: 2124 Marshall Street NE, Minneapolis, MN 55418
Website: the-sample-room.com
